As the the title says a great video by Hodinkee inside the archives of Cartier. They seem to do really well getting through the doors of some of the biggest Swiss watchmakers and digging out some of their historic mighty fine pieces. Enjoy the small video!
Hands on With Rolex Datejust 116200 Stainless steel with smooth bezel, I thought there has not been a lot of blogs regarding Rolex’s best selling model instead sports usually takes the limelight. The Datejust goes back a long way too and has so many variants so my next few series of blogs will be Datejusts models only more the newer versions I had in the past.
This one is kinda the base model Datejust 36mm in size with a stunning blue dial and baton hour markers on a Jubilee bracelet, there is option of oyster or jubilee bracelet at point of sale. The jubilee is slightly more in price but is very clean classy look with a concealed clasp and the Rolex logo showing. They started producing this datejust model around 2005/2006 with the rehaut Rolex Rolex Rolex around the inner bezel ring as extra security measure by Rolex they newly introduced.
As Rolex had to keep ahead of the fakers as the fakes are getting better and better. This particular datejust is simple but nice clean look with a date wheel with red and black alternate numbers like a roulette wheel which works well. A nice mix of polished and satin finish great for everyday smart watch for work or play. Looks great with a suit on but to be fair all Rolex’s look well with a suit on for all types of occasions but has partly been a part of their success.
Women are increasing more finding the 36mm Datejust model are more suitable than the 26mm smaller models bigger watches easier to see the time and a lot more watch presence on the wrist!!
As the title says Rolex Daytona Cosmograph 116500LN White Panda dial probably the watch of 2016 from Rolex very much loved and anticipated by every collector worldwide. The frenzy started after the basel show 2016 where Rolex showed the piece off since then the waiting list become impossible to get on everywhere in the world with the original RRp of £8250 pre price increase. To add to that never you will never see one in a Rolex Authorized dealer anywhere.
The watch is very similar to the older pre ceramic version which had stainless steel bezel with white dial and silver sub dials, the Rolex 500 (short for this model) has Cerachrom bezel in ceramic is the biggest change that is deeply loved and having a white dial with black subdials is a true Panda dial. Panda dial these days in any watch brand everyone wants!!!
The bezel I totally get after having the older model it is very easy the scratch, the ceramic bezel a lot tougher to mark when you are very OCD about your watches as most collectors are. The Rolex Cosmograph was loved by various stars Paul Newman was a great fan and true ambassador to the cosmograph brand dating back to the 1970’s which probably gave the watch its collector status today. Paul Newman Daytonas are fetching over £100k these days not bad for a £300 £400 watch in the 70’s. But to be honest vintage market gone through the roof last few years anything matt dial of gilt is the way forward.
To be honest I really loved the watch but at the cost of well over RRp I was very underwhelmed with the watch to be honest once I got one, this may be down to all the hype and build up to getting the watch and wanting one so bad!! But as waiting lists are totally non existent on this model for the next 15 years you after pay the premium to own one unfortunately as being Daytona fan had to try one. The pictures do speak volumes.
As the title says Talking watches with Morgan King, part of the Hodinkee Talking watches series a favorite of mine, I like sharing as they find the best watch collectors worldwide and show they stunning watches off. Vintage Rolex, Vintage Heuer, Vintage Breitling some of the best in vintage, love all of them wish that collection was mine. Vintage watches in the last 5 years gone crazy may be to do with more as an investment piece rather than money sat in the bank earning 0.2 interest!!
As I previously posted about the Omega Planet Ocean non chronograph version 42mm, thought it made sense to follow with reference to the “big Brother” 45mm Chronograph 600m with orange bezel. The Omega seamaster planet ocean chrono model number 220.127.116.11.01.002 is a nice big lump compared to the 42mm non chronograph, made in stainless steel brushed with subtle polished shoulders and pushers and rotating bezel. It houses the calibre 9300 co axial movement Omega’s bullet proof in-house chrono movement they use on a lot of their chrono watches. One of the big changes from the old chrono’s is 2 slit seconds sub dials instead of 3.
The watch is water resistant to 600m as the old one was but this wears very big on the wrist as is very thick indeed, date window at 6 o clock, a great combination with the orange bits on the pushers and little chrono hand plus number 12 on the dial. This model has see through caseback as well always nice to see the movement in my opinion although folk thinks it pointless on the wrist. I do like the chrono version probably one of my favourite planet oceans all round, far better than the older versions also added bonus of a true diver’s tool like Rolex Submariners but big and beautiful.
The Hodinkee Best of 2016 Review video lots of great watches through the previous year. I do love there video’s as watches make me tick from some of the best brands we all love Patek Philippe, vintage Heuer, Omega, Iwc, Tudor and many more. British Horology which is very good in its own right.
As the title says following are recent blogs of the SpeedMaster Moon watch, this is the modern version of the moonwatch st 145.022 it has not changed much since the previous model st145.022. They has been a few subtle changes the dial is luminova rather than aged tritium dials which started around late 90s. The bracelet has been updated to modern style and feel with brushed and polished finish and a lot more robust. The movement has been updated from Cal 861 to 1861 not sure what they did more than likely a slight modification on the Cal 861 which has been in moon watches for over 20 years.
The look is still the same with hesalite crystal and tachymetre bezel also the caseback is the same as previous model st 145.022, the changes overhaul are very minor, the biggest change is the look modern or vintage which just comes down to taste personally vintage look for me always. The luminova dials glow really bright in the dark as the vintage stuff does not glow at all as tritium loses its luminosity the longer it ages.
There is actually an newer version to this model, made a few years back only difference is they gave this a new model number and updated the bracelet with screws and a pins instead of the pin and tube just to make it easy to remove links and possibly less chance of age related stretch. However they added a huge briefcase style box that weighs a ton and bumped the price up to £3390 from around £2700 but the actual watch head stayed the same.
If your are looking for a modern speedmaster moonwatch this is the one to buy 3570.50.00 if you want a vintage moonwatch then look for the st 145.022 as prices are still good and not gone crazy yet. The earlier moon watches are stupid crazy money and hard to find.
This is the first Omega speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Moonphase 1985 made in limited numbers 1300 in total so makes these model very hard to find and very special these days. The Moonphase reference is ST345.0809 and it based on the standard moonwatch but with a calibre 866 and nowadays is calibre 1866 after a upgrade in 1990,s which is basically a calibre 861 with a moonphase / date module added.
This model has a clear clean caseback with the seamaster logo in the middle like many of the other seamaster models. The moonphase does not have the “first watch worn on the moon” engraved or a fancy limited edition caseback as most moon watches do have either. The moonphase was re-introduced around 1999 but with a few upgrades luminova hour markers on the dial not tritium and a modern speedmaster bracelet instead of the vintage 1450 bracelet also they used a modern tachymeter bezel with slight change with a modern font.
I have owned the new and the old moonphase and the vintage one is far better tritium dial lovely patina, and can see this being the one to have as been made in such small numbers, I think a lot of watch brands made watches in the 70,s and 80,s and never realized how nice and stunning they would be in the future.
The speedmaster will always be a loved watch by many collectors and enthusiasts and something will always go down in history as first watch watch on the the moon although there was rumors that Buzz Aldrin did have a Rolex Gmtmaster on his wrist as well as the moonwatch when on the moon, but Rolex was not bothered for the lime light.
As the title says “Speedy Tuesday” this one of the many Limited Editions Omega made which is probably in the 1000s, The Moonwatch has always been a favorite of mine does not get much better in conversation as “The first watch worn on the Moon.” This particular model the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo II 35th Anniversary was made around 2004 and limited to 3500 pieces and is the standard moonwatch 42mm with the hesalite crystal and Calibre 1861 movement which is slight update of the 861 movement that they put in the original moonwatch.
The apollo II is a cracking looking piece which I think will be a future collector’s “got to have piece”, as the watch has some very nice touches that most speedy fans will like:
firstly the Panda Dial silver dial black subdials always goes down well in any watch.
2nd. The applied Metal Omega Logo as the first pre moon watches that date pre 1969 hence “pre moon” had the applied logo then after the dials all made with the painted logo in white. The caseback not to shabby either all together a very nice piece that is modern with a few twists from the old Moonwatch.
3rd Th red writing on the landing 20 July 1969 all in all works well.
The apollo Limited edition were made every 5 years from the first moon landing on 20 July 1969 to commemorate the landing and I think this definitely one to have in the apollo II editions. To be fair all moonwatch are great pieces in general well respected watches that loved by millions if you like winding them up every 48 hours. If you get the chance to purchase one do not hesitate in purchasing there getting harder to find.
As the title Says talking watches with Spike Feresten by Hodinkee, always great these videos from watch collectors around the world. Hodinkee seem to know all the top collectors wish I had some of these collections.